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SV Subwoofers
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Phase. Think of bass waves as conflicting or enhancing each other, depending on the
timing of their arrival at your listening location (either together, or not). Since some of
your room’s bass might come from main, center and/or surround speakers, as well as your
sub, getting these bass waves to arrive in a complementary, enhancing fashion is the diffi-
cult job of the phase knob. Essentially, this control varies the timing of the bass waves
coming from the sub. The effect of bass cancellation will vary by volume and frequency
in your room, and no one setting is likely to ever be “perfect”. One technique to optimize
phase is to find a nice “bassy” loop (such as the menu of “Godzilla”) measuring its bass
response at various SPL peaks. As the loop runs, vary the phase knob. Where you see
the most response on a given bass passage is the phase setting providing the least bass
cancellation in your room (for the frequencies of the demo loop you chose). Adjusting
phase is mostly a concern in dual sub configurations or systems with “Large” mains.
Line In/Out. Use one of the sub’s “Line In” jacks to connect the subwoofer to the out-
put jack of your receiver/processor. Feeding one input is enough. If you are using a con-
ventional amp and/or a stereo setup you can use the “Line Out” jacks to send sound
(filtered of deep bass information) back to your system amp. A simple RCA to RCA
cable is all you need for either type configuration.
Auto On. Your sub allows an “Auto On” mode… or can be on all the time. With the
switch in the “Auto” position your subwoofer will “sense” that a DVD or CD etc. has
begun and switch on immediately (the “hard power switch” mentioned below must be on,
naturally). A few minutes after a movie ends, the auto-on light turns red, switching the
sub off. When running (and sensing a signal) the auto-on LED will be green. Sometimes,
with very low listening levels, your subwoofer might not get enough of a bass signal
from your surround sound processor to “trip” the auto-on circuit. Should you find this to
be the case you may leave this switch “On”, or turn the receiver’s subwoofer output up,
and the sub down.
Crossover Enable Switch. If you allow your DD/DTS surround-sound receiver or
processor to manage bass frequencies (recommended), this switch should be set to
“Disabled”. This eliminates the effects of the “Crossover Frequency” knob and allows
your sub to reproduce just what it’s fed from the receiver. If you use the sub in a two
channel (stereo only) configuration, then “Enable” the crossover and adjust the knob to
best blend the sub into the low frequency output of your speakers.
High level inputs/outputs. Not commonly used today, but binding posts are there in
case you don’t have low-level inputs/outputs on your receiver/processor.
Power. This heavy duty two-position switch next to the power cord will cut the power
to your sub amp. Flip this switch to off before you move the sub or change inputs or
outputs.
A/C Connection. Plug your sub into a dedicated A/C outlet. “Convenience” outlets
of typical receivers often don’t provide the needed current. Avoid them.
Fuse. User replaceable, contact SVS if you have trouble finding one. The fuse can be
accessed by a small door immediately below the power cord fitting.