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the difficult job of the phase control. Essentially, “phase” varies the timing of the bass
coming from the sub. But don’t despair if you don’t hear much difference with changes
to the phase knob — the effect of bass cancellation will vary by volume and frequency
in your room, and no single setting is likely to ever be “perfect”. One technique to opti-
mize phase is to find a nice “bassy” loop (such as the menu of “Godzilla” movie DVD)
and measure the loop’s SPL response at various points. As the loop runs, you can have
an assistant adjust the phase control. When you see the most response on a given bass
passage, typically that’s the setting with the least room-induced cancellation (for the
frequencies of the demo loop).
Line In/Out. Use one of the sub’s “Line In” jacks to connect the subwoofer to the
output jack of your receiver/processor. Feeding just one input is enough. If you are
using a conventional amp and/or a stereo setup you can use the “Line Out” jacks to send
sound (filtered of deep bass information) back to your system amp. A simple RCA to
RCA cable is all you need for either type configuration.
Auto On. Your sub allows an “Auto On” mode… or can be on all the time. With the
switch in the “Auto” position your subwoofer will “sense” that a DVD or CD etc. has
begun and switch on immediately (the “hard power switch” mentioned below must be
on, naturally). A few minutes after a movie finishes, the Green auto-on light will turn
Red, switching the sub back off. Sometimes, with very low listening levels, your sub-
woofer might not get enough of a bass signal from your surround sound processor to
“trip” the auto-on circuit. Should you ever find this to be the case you may leave this
switch to “On”, or turn the receiver’s subwoofer output up, and the sub down. Recali-
brate your levels if you change the subwoofers gain knob however.
Crossover enable switch. If you allow your DD/DTS surround-sound receiver or
processor to manage bass frequencies (recommended), this switch should be set to
“Disabled”. This eliminates the effects of the “Crossover Frequency” knob and allows
your sub to reproduce just what it’s fed from the receiver. If you use the sub in a two
channel (stereo only) configuration, then “Enable” the crossover and adjust the knob to
best blend the sub into the low frequency output of your speakers.
High level inputs/outputs. Not commonly used today, but binding posts are there
in case you don’t have low-level inputs/outputs on your receiver/processor. Typically
utilized only if you are not using a DD/DTS compatible system.
Power. This heavy duty two-position switch next to the power cord will completely
cut the power to your sub amp. Flip this switch to off before you ever move the sub or
change inputs or outputs.
A/C Connection. Plug your sub into a dedicated A/C outlet. “Convenience” outlets
of typical receivers often don’t provide the needed current. Avoid them.
Fuse. User replaceable, contact SVS if you have trouble finding one. The fuse can be
accessed by a small door immediately next to the power cord fitting (where you should
also find a spare one for your use).