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WIRING INSTRUCTIONS
The power connections for this amplifier are made via screw tightened terminal blocks. Loosen the screw for the
connection to be made and fully insert the wire (strip 1/2" of insulation from the end) under the respective screw on the
side panel. Tighten the screw down to secure the wire.
1. Power Connection
The battery terminal (+12V) must be connected directly to the positive terminal of the vehicle battery to provide an
adequate voltage source and minimize noise. Connecting the battery terminal lead to any other point (such as the fuse block)
will reduce the power output and may cause noise and distortion. Use only #16 gauge or thicker (smaller gauge #) wire
for this lead and connect it to the terminal of the battery after all other wiring is completed.
2. Ground Connection
The ground terminal (GND) connection is also critical to the correct operation of the amplifier. Use a wire of the same
gauge as the power connection (#16 or thicker) and connect it between the ground terminal (GND) of the amplifier and
a metal part of the vehicle close to the mounting location. This wire should be as short as possible and any paint or
rust at the grounding point should be scraped away to provide a clean metal surface to which the end of the ground
wire can be screwed or bolted.
3. Remote Turn-On Connection
The amplifier is turned on by applying +12 volts to the remote turn-on terminal (REM). The wire lead to this terminal
should be connected to the "Auto-Antenna" lead from the car stereo which will provide the +12 volts only when the car
stereo is turned on. If the car stereo does not provide an Auto-Antenna lead, the remote turn-on lead may be wired
to an "Accessory" or "Radio" terminal in the car's fuse block. This will turn the amplifier on and off with the ignition key,
regardless of whether the car stereo is on or off. The remote turn-on lead does not carry large currents, so #20 gauge
wire may be used for this application.
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