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ficult job of the phase control. Essentially, “phase” varies the timing of the bass
waves
coming from the sub. But don’t despair if you don’t hear much difference,
especially if running a single subwoofer. Bass “cancellation” will vary by room
shape, volume, and the bass frequency. No one setting is likely to ever be perfect.
One technique to optimize phase is to find a nice “bassy” loop (such as the menu of
the “Godzilla” movie DVD) and measure the loop’s SPL response at various bass
peaks. As the loop runs, have an assistant adjust phase in small steps while you
measure. When you see the most response on a given bass passage, typically that’s
the setting with the least cancellation (for the frequencies of the demo loop).
Line In/Out. Use either of the sub’s “Line In” jacks to connect the subwoofer to the
output jack of your receiver/processor. Feeding just one input is enough. If you are
using a conventional amp and/or a stereo setup you can use the “Line Out” jacks to
send sound (filtered of deep bass information) back to your system amp. A simple
“:RCA to RCA” cable is all you need for either type configuration.
Auto On. Your SVS Powered Box allows itself to be in an “Auto-On” mode… or
“On” all the time. With the former setting (the switch in the “Auto” position) your
subwoofer will “sense” that a DVD or CD etc. has begun and switch its audio circuits
on immediately (the “hard” power switch mentioned below must be on, naturally). A
few minutes after a movie, the Auto-On light will turn Red, switching the sub back
off. When running (and sensing a signal) the Auto-On LED will be green. Some-
times, with very low listening levels, your subwoofer might not get enough of a bass
signal from your surround sound processor to “trip” the Auto-On circuit. Should you
ever find this to be the case, you may leave this switch to “On”, or turn up the re-
ceiver’s subwoofer output level some (be sure to recalibrate channels levels with your
meter afterwards).
Crossover enable switch. If you allow your DD/DTS surround-sound receiver or
processor to manage bass frequencies (again, highly recommended), this switch
should be set to “Disabled”, eliminating the effects of the “Crossover Frequency”
knob and allowing your sub to reproduce just what it’s fed from the receiver. If you
use the sub in a two channel (stereo only) configuration, then “Enable” the crossover
and adjust the knob to best blend the sub into the output of your speakers.
High level inputs/outputs. Not commonly used today, but binding posts are there in
case you don’t have low-level inputs/outputs on your receiver/processor. Typically
utilized only if you are not using a DD/DTS compatible system.
Power. This heavy-duty two-position switch next to the power cord will completely
cut the power to your sub amp. Flip this switch to off before you ever move the sub
or change inputs or outputs.
A/C connection. Plug your sub into a dedicated electrical outlet. “Convenience”
outlets of typical receivers often don’t provide the needed current. Do not use these.
Fuse. User replaceable, contact your dealer if you have trouble finding one. The
fuse can be accessed by a small door immediately next to the power cord fitting
(where you should also find a spare one for your use).