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It’s
a good idea to bench test your system before mounting the components. If
you have a
1
Z-volt
power source, you can connect and test all the components
outside the car. Or you can connect them inside the car before screwing them
down. Either way, connect the components exactly as you intend to in the final
installation; make all power connections last; test the system: then disconnect all
power until the final installation is complete.
WIRING
Determine how your car’s wiring is laid out, and run your wires
in
the same loca-
tions when possible. Many passageways, wire-hooks, and strain relief devices
already exist in your car; take advantage of them. Keep all wiring inside the car.
Good standard audio practice suggests keeping signal wires short and away
from power lines. Wires can be run under carpet. If you drill a new passage
-
hole through metal, make sure no burrs remain to scrape the wire; use grommets
as needed.
All wires should be hidden: an exposed wire can inadvertently be
pulled, causing disconnection or shorting. Wires should never be under tension
or subject to moisture. Use cable ties to bundle excess wire.
POWER WIRES
NOTE: Your amplifier can only be operated from a
12-VOLT
NEGATIVE
GROUND electrical system. If your car was produced before 1970 or if you
have any doubts, make sure of the type of electrical system you have before
making any connections.
For power wiring, use 1 O-gauge wire or larger.
Smaller gauge numbers denote
larger wire. The PLUS 12 Vterminal
(tyl
in the wiring diagram) should be con-
nected directly to the positive terminal of your car battery terminal. An in-line
fuse should be placed as close as possible to the battery terminal. If you have
more than one amplifier, each amplifier should be separately fused. Use the
following fuse values:
D-200
. . . . . . .
.._.......
30-ampere
D-l 00
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
..20_ampere
Class-A-50
. . . . . . ...20-ampere
Class-A-40
. . . . . . . . .
15-ampere
D-60
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15ampere
The GROUND terminal
(#2)
should be connected directly to the automobile
chassis with lo-gauge wire or larger. Make this wire as short as possible to
prevent noise in the system. A nearby bolt can serve as a ground terminal.
Make sure that the wire contacts bare metal, not coated metal or paint.
INPUTCONNECTIONS
Inputs to the amplifier attach by means of standard RCA-type jacks. The
Sound-
stream amplifiers achieve a level of performance at which cable and connector
quality is significant: the jacks on your amplifier are gold plated, and we recom-
mend premium gold-plated plugs and high-quality shielded cable.
Connect your left channel signal source to the INPUT
LEFTjack
(#8),
and your
right-channel signal source to the
INPUTRlGHTjack
(#9).
In most cases, the signal source will be the preamp output jacks of a tuner/deck.
Some tuner/decks use preamp output connectors other than RCA jacks, in
which case you will need a specral cabie or adaptor
atiailable
from your dealer.
if your tuner/deck has speaker outputs and no preamp outputs, you can use the
speaker outputs. Wire RCA-type plugs to the ends of your tuner/deck’s output
wires, making sure that you maintain consistent polarity in all channels.
If you have an equalizer or low-level crossover network(s) for bi- or tri-amping,
these components will be inserted between your tuner:deck and your
ampiifier(s}. Refer to the manuals for these components for further details.
OUTPUT CONNECTIONS
Use high-quality loudspeaker cable for best results; use
l&gauge
cable
as a mmimum size. Connect your left channel loudspeaker(s) to the
LEk-TSPEAKER+
and LEFTSPEAKER- terminals
j#4
and
#5);
connect your
right channel loudspeaker(sj to the RIGHTSPEAKER+ and
RIGHTSPEAKER- terminals
(#7
and
$6).
The terminals on
jour
loudspeakers are marked for polarity, and loudspeaker
wire is coded by color or by markings on the jacket. Be sure to connect the left
and right channels with the same polarity. Loudspeaker manufacturers are not
consistent in their polarity markings, so if you have icudspeakers of different
types connected to the same amplifier terminal, verify correct polarity by ear.
The correct polarity produces the most bass; incorrect polarity produces less
bass and a strangely dislocated sound image on mono material.
lfyou
have more
than
one amplifier: for each amplifier and its loudspeakers, the
left and right channels must always be wired with the same polarity. But from
one amplifier to the next, correct polarity may be the same, or it may be re-
versed. This is because of differences in amplifier design, the nature of cross-
over filters, and other factors. Again, experiment and verify the correct polarity
by ear.
REMOTE POWER-ON CONNECTION
If your tuner/deck has a remote power-on control wire or terminal, connect it to
the REMOTEterminal
(#3)
on your amplifier. This is a control line, not a power
line, so small wire
(18-20
gauge) is acceptable.
If your tuner/deck has no remote power-on control lapeled as such, but has a
power antenna control, it may be possible to wire the power antenna control to
the REMOTE terminal.
If your tuner/deck has neither a remote power-on control wire nor a usable
power antenna control, it will be necessary either to connect the REMOTE
terminal to a +12-volt source which is switched by the ignition key, or to connect
the REMOTE terminal to a constant
+I
2-volt source
!hrough
an on-off switch
you install in a location accessible to the driver.
Do not connect the REMOTE terminal directly to a constant +12-volt line without
a switch; this would keep the amplifier on at all times and drain your battery
when the motor is off.
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