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Try to line the holes up perfectly, because
it makes pulling the wire much easier. A
good technique is to snap a chalk line
across the face of the studs or against the
bottom of the ceiling joists. Then work
backward so that you can always see the
holes you have already drilled. Paying
careful attention to this will save you a lot
of time later on!
Pulling the Cable
Pull the cable in sections (from the stereo
to the volume control, from the volume
control to the speaker). Start with the
longest sections and use left over wire to
complete the short sections. If you plan to
pull many rooms at the same time
through a central route, walk off the dis-
tance to each destination, add a generous
fudge factor for turns and other obstacles,
then cut off each section so that you have
a bundle of wires you can pull at once.
Whenever you run the wire further than
four and one half feet from a hole in a
stud or joist (open attic space, going up
walls, etc.), fasten the wire to the joists or
studs using cable clamps or appropriately
sized wire staples. The wire should not
have large sags in it, nor should it be too
tight. Try to protect the wire from being
stepped on in attics or other unfinished
crawl spaces. There are guard strips, race-
ways and conduits which can be used to
protect the cable. Consult the local build-
ing code for special requirements in your
area.
Concealing Speaker Wire in Existing
Walls
This is actually a fairly simple task if you
restrict your choice of speaker locations
and wire routes to the interior walls or
ceilings of your home. Interior walls in
almost all North American residences are
hollow, so that it is easy to flush mount
speakers into them and route new speaker
cable around the house. What you see
when you look at the painted wall
board, plaster, or paneling is only the
skin of the wall. Behind the skin is the
skeleton; two-by-four wood or metal
“studs” running vertically from the floor
to the ceiling in walls and two-by-six or
larger “joists” running horizontally in the
ceilings and floors. In between the studs
and the joists is the space for the wiring
and plumbing of your home.
Exterior walls are different. They must
insulate the house from the heat and
cold outside, so they are stuffed with
insulation. The national building code
requires that the hollow wall space in
exterior walls be broken by a horizontal
stud placed between the vertical studs.
This “fire blocking” makes it very diffi-
cult to retrofit long lengths of wire. In
some areas of the country the exterior
walls are constructed of solid masonry,
and have no hollow space for speakers
or wires.
Start by examining all the possible routes
you might take to run the speaker wire
from the speaker to the volume control
and back to the stereo. Use a stud sensor
or other device to locate the internal
structure of the wall. You want to avoid
all studs or joists. A typical route would
be: from the speaker location up the
inside of the wall to a new hole drilled
into the top “plate” (horizontal two-by-
four at the top of the inside of the wall),
into the attic crawl space, then down to
the volume control location through
another top plate, back up to the attic,
across the attic, and finally down anoth-
er plate to the wall behind the stereo sys-
tem itself (See Figure 3). The other very
common route is through the bottom
plate of the wall into an unfinished base-
ment or crawl space.
9
Installation Fundamentals