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12" Reference Series
Subwoofer System
Model: RS1200
User's Manual
©2007 Dayton Audio
®
(4)
Connection/Configurations
Most pre-amps and receivers have a stereo line output that
follows the output level that is set by the system master volume
control; these outputs would connect to the line-level inputs on
the subwoofer amp control panel. Many newer multi-channel
receivers have a dedicated mono subwoofer output, usually
labeled LFE or Low Frequency Effects. The use of this output
will permit you to have separate control over the bass output
of the source, and it also permits you to set a crossover
frequency. When using an LFE output, use a single cable to
connect to the LFE input on the sub amp; keep in mind that this
input bypasses the internal low pass filter on the amplifier. For
either configuration, the system will operate with the greatest
linearity and least noise if all gain controls are balanced; that
is, no single gain control is operating at much more than 50%
of its total range. If one output is set at 10% and it feeds a
corresponding input that ends up at 90% then hum, noise, and
overly sensitive control characteristics may result.
The RS1200 comes shipped standard for 110V U.S. operation;
simply connect the included IEC power cord to your wall outlet.
For 220V input, remove the fuse holder, rotate 180 degrees,
and re-install. In most 220V applications a separate power cord
will be required and is not included. When connecting your
subwoofer for the first time, it is important to remember to start
with the amplifier OFF and the gain control set at minimum.
Start some source program that contains good bass material,
apply AC power to the subwoofer, and slowly increase the gain
on the sub amp. You should hear a gradual increase in deep
bass output as you bring up the volume. When the overall
balance between low and high frequency seems close, adjust
the phase switch and keep it set where the sub-bass response
sounds best in your listening location. You may then use the
parametric equalizer to finish off the general contour of the
low frequencies, or to correct a troublesome room mode or
resonance. These steps to achieve an optimum room response
should be used in conjunction with the steps described in the
next section, because the physical location of the speaker
components in the system can affect performance as much as
the electronic adjustments.
Room Placement/Integration
The requirement for the room location of a subwoofer is
substantially different than what we would expect for full range
speakers. We are not concerned with stereo imaging due
to the omnidirectional nature of sub bass, and bass tends
to fill a room with little bearing on positioning the subwoofer
in direct line-ofsight. Bass energy is easily reinforced by
reflection, and as those reflections recombine, the resulting
buildup can cause very irregular response in the room in the
form of peaks. Similarly, phase cancellations can occur when
the sound waves at a specific frequency cause destructive
interference and cancel each other out, and create holes or
nulls in the response. Keeping the subwoofer out of the center
between two opposing walls, and also out of corners, will help
to achieve the most even, consistent response. Some listeners
may prefer the “boomier” sound that results from placing a sub
in a corner, or need the increase in gain to compensate for
some other factor. It is generally a good idea to avoid placing
the subwoofer where it is perfectly centered between any two
opposing parallel planes (two walls; or the floor and ceiling). In
some cases, moving the enclosure just a few feet can make a
noticeable difference.
Aligning the subwoofer along a line drawn between the left/right
main speakers will help to keep the speakers in the same time
domain and will improve coherence. When properly integrated,
the actual location of the subwoofer will disappear and the
bass will seem to be coming from the main left/right speakers
on either side. Test tones and measurement equipment can
help you with your system setup, but good results can also be
achieved by spending time with a couple of well recorded CDs
with which you are especially familiar. You may find it useful to
have an associate make adjustments to the various system
controls, or even move speaker enclosures, while you remain in
a consistent listening position. After satisfying yourself that your
primary location is OK, move around a bit to make sure that
the wider soundstage is acceptable. There’s no good reason
why a single high quality subwoofer cannot be used for both
home stereo and home theatre applications. Each person has
his or her own individual preference as far as tonality, loudness,
range, or definition is concerned, and the biggest difference
between home theatre and home stereo is not the hardware
as much as how the hardware is used. A typical home theatre
system will tend to have the output of the subwoofer turned up
a bit more than what would be appropriate for home stereo.
Most cinema soundtracks are mixed with the sub-bass dialed
in to create both musical support and dramatic special effects.
It is up to you to decide how much you want the Imperial Battle
Cruisers to shake your house.
Troubleshooting
Hum:
The addition of a new active sub to an existing system can
sometimes result in the subwoofer beginning to hum. While
it would be easy to assume that the new product is at fault or
even defective, it is usually just an indicator that it is time to
take a closer look at the overall grounding of the audio system.
To start with, verify that all audio equipment in the system is on
the same AC power circuit. The outlets in a listening area may
or may not all be on the same breaker, some could even be on
a completely different breaker panel. Always make sure that all
equipment grounds are in good condition, and NEVER remove
the ground pin from a power plug. There are some cases where
the actual power line has some form of interference but the
most common cause of noise is a ground loop, meaning that
the system’s different ground points lack a common potential.
The cable TV line can be the cause of hum in multi-source
home audio/video systems. Just temporarily disconnect the
cable line, and if the hum stops then the use of an inline
isolation transformer is suggested. Other situations may require
the installation of an improved earth ground (connection to a
metal water pipe or grounding rod) in the vicinity of the audio/
video system. The key is to proceed slowly and step by step,
taking care to identify which cables or combinations of cables
cause noise when connected.
Weak Bass Output:
If bass output seems low, consider the different parts of the
system that can contribute to gain or volume. Try moving the
subwoofer to a corner. Make sure that the bass output control
of the receiver is set correctly (if so equipped). Be sure to use
a “Y” cord to connect both line level inputs if you are using
a mono source. Verify that the source that is feeding the
subwoofer does not have a crossover of its own that is set to a
lower frequency than the one in the subwoofer speaker.
Specifications
Frequency Response:
25Hz-200Hz
SPL:
110dB
Amplifier Power Output: 500 Watts RMS
Signal to Noise Ratio: 98 dB A-weighted
Input Impedance:
12K ohms
Dimensions:
17”(W) x 17”(H) x 17-1/4”(D)
Net Weight: 77 lbs.
Power Requirements: 110-120 VAC, 60 Hz. (8A GMA fuse)
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