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duce the chance of breaking the plaster. Test fit the speaker in
the hole, the speaker should fit loosely and the speaker frame
should cover the edges of the hole. Repeat these steps for the
other speaker
.
5) Speaker Cable
Don’t compromise sound quality by using thin, inexpensive
speaker wire, we recommend using a high quality oxygen free
copper speaker cable. For runs less than 50 feet we recom-
mend 16 gauge cable, and for longer runs we recommend
14 gauge or larger cable. Most municipalities require the use
of CL2 rated speaker cable for installation in walls and ceilings.
Leave enough speaker cable so you can stand comfortably on
the floor or ladder while connecting the speaker cable to the
speakers.
6) Speaker Connection
Remove about 8" of the cable jacket to expose the inner conduc-
tors. Strip 1/4" of insulation from each conductor and connect to
the speaker terminals. When connecting the wires to the speak-
ers, be sure to observe proper polarity. Most CL2 rated speaker
cable will have red and black conductors so you will connect the
red wire to the red speaker terminal and the black wire to the
black speaker terminal.
7) Final Installation
To install the speakers into the ceiling, remove the grills, this
will give you access to the mounting screws. Turn the mounting
clamps so they are positioned as in the illustration, this will allow
the speakers to clear the hole for installation. Insert the speaker
into the hole, and tighten the mounting screws. As you
turn each screw, the mounting clamps will rotate outward to
engage ceiling material.
CAUTION: Do Not Over-Tighten the Clamps. Too much
torque may snap off the lug and the speaker will not seat
securely. A snug fit is all that is necessary to assure proper
performance.
8) Painting Speakers
If you choose to paint the speaker grill and/or frame we
have provided a “Paint Masking Template” to cover the woofer/tweeter assembly and help
prevent possible damage. Do not try to paint the frame and grill assembly together, the
grill should always be painted separately.
Do not apply heavy coats of paint that might block the perforations in the grill.
9) Troubleshooting
Should your speakers not work properly, check the following:
No sound from speakers:
● Most stereo receivers have an A/B speaker selector switch. Make certain that
this switch is in the proper position.
● Mute feature is activated.
One speaker is playing while the other is not:
● Check the balance control on the receiver. Make sure it is centered.
●
Loose connection at either the receiver or the speaker. Double check connections.
● Bad speaker cable. Replace suspect speaker cable.
Receiver cuts on and off:
● This could be caused by a short circuit between the positive and negative leads.
Check the connections at the back of the receiver, and then at the speaker; make
sure that no strands of wire from one connector are touching the other connector.
Congratulations on the purchase of your Dayton Audio
®
CS625C Contractor Series Ceiling Speakers.
These speakers were manufactured with high quality components and engineered to deliver top quality
sound performance.
● Contemporary low profile grill design
● Long-throw polypropylene cone woofers with rubber surround
● Coaxially mounted 1" silk dome tweeter
● 12 dB/octave optimized crossover
Please read these instructions completely before you begin your installation.
1) Parts Inventory
Your speaker kit should include the following:
● 1 pair of Dayton Audio Contractor Series Ceiling Speakers with Grills
● 1 speaker installation / paint masking template
2) Installation Tools
The Dayton Audio speakers can be installed with the following simple tools:
● Pencil ● #2 Phillips screwdriver
● Masking tape ● Wire cutters & wire stripper/crimp tool
● Drill & drill bits ● Stud finder**
● Utility knife or wallboard saw*
* Recommended for use if installing in plaster walls.
** Optional tools to make the installation easier.
3) Speaker Location
To achieve the best performance from your Dayton Audio speakers, it is important to carefully
select the location for installation. Your ceiling speakers should be installed 5 to 8 feet apart to
ensure proper stereo imaging. Mount each speaker the same distance from the intersecting
walls to maintain a uniform look. Keep the speakers at least 2 feet away from the corners of
the room to avoid overemphasized bass reproduction.
4) Speaker Installation
Once you have selected the location for your speakers, you are ready to install them.
CAUTION: Be certain that there are no electrical wires, water pipes, or heating ducts
in the planned installation area before you start drilling or cutting into the ceiling. If
there is an electrical outlet nearby, turn off the circuit breaker to avoid possible injury.
Ceiling speakers are designed to be mounted in the ceiling between the joists or trusses.
Once you have selected the location, check to be sure you are between the joists or truss.
One method is to tap on the ceiling, you will hear a hollow sound when between two joists or
trusses and a sharper, more solid sound when right on top of, or close to a joist or truss.
An easier, more accurate method for finding the location of joists or trusses is to use a
stud finder.
The Contractor Series Ceiling speakers include a two-part template. Remove the center circle
from the template, this is a paint masking template to use if you choose to paint the speaker
frames and grill. The outer ring is used to mark the cut-out for the speakers.
Once you have established that your chosen location is between two joists or trusses, and
that there are no obstructions in the ceiling, tape your speaker template to the ceiling and
lightly trace around the inside edge with a pencil and drill a 1" hole in the center of the
template outline. Next, use a piece of stiff wire (a coat hanger works well), bend it 8" from the
end at a 90 degree angle. Insert the bent part of the coat hanger into the 1" hole and rotate
the wire in a complete circle to check for obstructions. If the wire hits a stud on either side,
reposition your template to the left or right and mark the outline again. Keep the pilot hole
within the template outline.
If the ceiling is made of drywall, simply cut the marked area with your utility knife or drywall
saw. If the ceiling is made of plaster, you should use a saw with a higher tooth count to re-